"Uptown Chicago ...cradle of… Entertainment!"

An exciting History Animation of the
Uptown Chicago Entertainment District

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Magnolia-Malden Block Club Area Neighborhood Development:
The half-mile area of land north of Graceland Cemetery, including the land of the 4600 & 4700 blocks of Magnolia (Arlington Avenue) Malden, and Racine (Pemberton Avenue), was subdivided in 1891. Magnolia and Racine were re-named in 1909 when the city street numbers and names were "rationalized". 

Magnolia Avenue--comes from the name of the famous Tugboat Magnolia, used by Captain Gilson during the "Great Chicago Fire" to rescue thousands of people in the Loop, trapped in an area surrounded by fire.
Malden Street--came from Fort Malden, a fort at the mouth of the Detroit River, which flows from the Borough of Malden, England.
Racine Avenue--named after Jean Racine, a French poet and Dramatist. 
Leland Avenue--named after Cyrus P. Leland, a subdivider and member of the Ravenswood Land Company.
Clifton Avenue--named after the city of Clifton, New Hampshire, which was the home town of the subdivider.
Wilson Avenue--named after John P. Wilson, a lawyer who gave money to start Children's Memorial Hospital.
Lawrence Avenue--named after Bradford Lawrence, a friend of Mr. Silverman, landowner and subdivider.
Broadway--named after the famous street in New York.

This new "suburb" development, called the "Sheridan Drive Development," was marketed to wealthy Chicagoans who wanted an escape from the hectic city.  Prior to that it was considered as a possible core site for the 1893 Columbian Exposition--owned at that time by Graceland Cemetery Corporation--but this suggestion was dropped in favor of the now-famous south-side location.  Houses in this new development were mostly brick, featuring large brick porches and big front-yard gardens.  The lots featured 50-foot frontages.  Later, people started calling this area "Sheridan Park," likely because of the nearby "suburbs" -  Buena Park and Argyle Park. 

Uptown Entertainment District:
The "Uptown" name developed with the area's retail and entertainment district in the early 1900's, resulting from the influx of new residents, mostly young professionals.  "Uptown Jazz," from New Orleans, had found a Chicago home at the Arcadia Ballroom on Broadway. The area's "Uptown" name was likely coined by this very popular music of the time. The boom in popularity of living in the area was largely due to construction of the the Wilson "el" stop, which was the terminating end of the Red Line.  Chicago's "elevated railroad", or "el", was introduced by the Chicago Transit Authority as transportation for attendees of the 1893 Columbian Exposition.  The Wilson stop on the Red Line was completed in 1900.  One neighbor recalls his father having seen Teddy Roosevelt give a "whistle-stop" speech from the back of the train when it was at the Wilson platform.  In 1923, the new "Uptown Union Station" on the North side of the street (where Popeye's Chicken is now) replaced a small office and store building designed by architect Frank Lloyd Wright (The H.O. Stohr & Co. Arcade).  This new station was built to join the "el" with the existing "North Shore Electric Line".  In 1945, the Red line was extended to the Howard Station.  In 1996, the Wilson Yard fell victim to one of the largest fires in the city.  It has had marginal use ever since, but there are now plans to develop that land into a Target Department Store and Multiplex Theaters with street level retail.

Neighborhood Movie Studios and filming:
The Uptown Entertainment District area, which developed during the birth of the Motion Picture Industry, has been the site for the filming of over 250 movies since the early 1900's. In many ways, Uptown was the original "Hollywood" before studios were built in California. Essanay Studios, a very famous Uptown movie studio on Argyle Street, was started in 1907 by George K. Spoor, who was a movie pioneer who led in the development one of the very first movie projectors, and Gilbert M. "Broncho Billy" Anderson, the worlds first movie star.  Spoor and Anderson used the "S" and the "A" from their last names to come up with the company name, Essanay Studios.   It's volume of movies helped make Chicago a major center of American movie production.  One out of every five movies produced at that time came from Chicago.  Many considered that the area would grow into a major US movie capital. (although outdoor filming, necessary for the early silent films, was clearly easier in a milder climate.  Also, the popularity of Westerns influenced the decision to move the Essanay studio to California) You can see the original studio building on the south side of Argyle Street, between Magnolia and Clark.  It has the trademark Indian-head logo on each side of the doorway.  There is an historical marker on the right.  By the time Essanay built their studios in California in 1912, they had produced over 200 films.  The Chicago studio closed in 1917, after ten years of production.

Charlie Chaplin (starring in "His New Job"), Rod LaRocque, Gloria Swanson, Ben Turpin, Francis Xavier Bushman and wife Beverly Bayne, Gerda Holmes, Lawrence Washburn, Ruth Stonehouse, Frank J. Coleman, Agnes Ayers, Charlotte Mineau, Rapley Holmes, Leo White (I), Bud Jamison, Lester Cuneo, Ruth Stonehouse, Harry Dunkinson, Max Linder, Billy Armstrong (I), Martha Mansfield, Wallace Beery (who later married Gloria Swanson), Stellan Windrow (the first movie Tarzan) and "Broncho Billy" Anderson (the first movie star and first movie cowboy) and Tom Mix were all famous silent film stars who all worked for a movie studio in our neighborhood --Essanay Studios.  The first Sherlock Holmes movie, starring  William Gillette  (the first Shirlock Holmes), Edward Fielding  (the first Dr. Watson), and Ernest Maupain (the first Professor Moriarity) was filmed at the Argyle Street Studios.

Allan Dwan, a famous director, Louella Parsons, famous Hollywood Gossip Columnist, director Theodore Wharton, director Richard Foster Baker, actor/director Charles Inslee, writer George Ade, producer Jessie T. Robbins, and cinemetographer Roland "Rollie" Totheroh,  also got their "big break" at Uptown's Essanay.  In it's heyday, it would not be unusual to see movie stars walking the streets of Uptown, eating in one of Uptown's many restaurants or socializing at one of Uptown's many nightclubs.  In fact, there was a hitching post in front of the Green Mill for the cowboy actors to hitch their horses.

Syndicate Pictures, a studio on Sheridan Road, produced movies in the early 1930's. It was the first Chicago studio to produce "talkies" (movies with sound).  This studio, which filmed mostly "B" westerns, did some work in-house at their Uptown studio, but most of the filming took place at Trem Carr Ranch in Placerita Canyon, California. This movie lot, built by one of the owners of Syndicate Pictures, is still in use today. Now owned by Disney, this western movie lot has been used in many John Wayne movies, "High Noon," "Rin-Tin-Tin," and was the set for the TV Series, "Gunsmoke."

More recently in the Magnolia Malden neighborhood area, a scene from the 1986 movie "Running Scared" (starring Gregory Hines, Billy Crystal and Jimmy Smits)  was filmed at the corner of Magnolia and Leland, on a playlot that was there before the two condo buildings were built.  A Midas commercial, which aired during the 2003 Cubs' Championship Series Games, was filmed in the 4700 block of Magnolia.  The phrase "I brake for yard sales" was filmed there, and the phrase "Lepreachans?" was filmed in the alley behind the Riviera Theatre.Also, the house that originally stood where the new 8-flat condo was built at 4707 N. Magnolia, was home to members of "Blue Man Group."  They rented the house from the developer of the new building until he was ready to start demolition.  Scenes from the movie "Batman Begins" were filmed at the corner of Leland and Broadway and in the Uptown Snack Shop building parking lot. Scenes from "Il Mare" were filmed in the 4700 block of Racine, near Borders.

Neighborhood Character:
The unique architecture and numerous small apartments of our area were a result of the boom of young professionals, mostly single, who came to this "new" area of town and the draw of it's many ammenities--and hot jazz!  Uptown was close to the beaches. (note that the beaches were closer than they are now.  The Clarendon fieldhouse, for example, was actually a "beach house" before the park was extended!) Uptown also boasted many new theaters, along with dance halls, hotels, nightclubs and urban amusement centers, including Moulin Rouge Gardens (which later became the Rainbo Gardens), was at one time the largest nightclub in the world, with restaurant seating for 2,000 and room for an additional 1,500 on the dance floor!  It was converted to a casino and boxing/wrestling arena and later into a dinner theater.  Numerous other restaurants, delicatessens, tearooms, orange juice stands, convenience stores, clothing stores, banks and specialty shops could be found along Wilson Avenue and Broadway Avenue (Evanston Avenue).  Harmon's Arcadia Ballroom was one of the few spots in Chicago that would book all-black jazz bands, many from New Orleans.  The Arcadia became host to a "bohemian" crowd of young and creative late-nighters.  The dancers would often dress in creative outfits and invent dance steps in hopes of winning the periodic dance contests.  Many "flapper" fashions and dance steps from the Roaring 20's got their start at the Uptown Arcadia.  It was said that the people who moved to Uptown in that day, full of youthful enthusiasm, spent more on clothes than anything else.

The development of Uptown's entertainment and retail district happened during the early 1900's.  By the 1920's, Uptown was Chicago's fastest growing neighborhood.  As developers "gobbled-up" property and built "skyscraping apartments," the overabundance of units caused Uptown to become a very affordable place to live.  The Loren Miller & Company department store, which later became Goldblatt's, was considered a major nucleus.  The world-famous Uptown Theatre and Riviera Theater were promoted as healthy environments to watch movies, since many theaters at that time had fallen into question as places for lewd behavior.  Not in Uptown!  The Uptown Theater even had a children's play room with a full-time babysitter.  Some wondered if Uptown was to surpass downtown Chicago as the retail center of the region, much like Midtown Manhattan had grown larger than New York's Wall Street area.  It maintained it's distinction as one of the most important commercial centers until the 1960's, as the area's population was declining.

The Green Mill Lounge, which is just down the street, at Broadway and Lawrence, started as a road house.  It is now a popular club, which hosts jazz performances.  It is still very much the same as in the Jazz Age of Capone's Chicago.  Al Capone used to frequent the Green Mill Lounge, which was owned by his right-hand man, "Machine Gun" Jack McGurn. North Side gangs were prominent in Uptown, including John Dillinger and Louie "Two Gun" Alterie.
The Uptown Theatre, originally built in 1925 as a "movie palace", was the largest theater in the country, with seating for just under 4,500.  It boasted the world's largest Wurlitzer organ, as well as state-of-the-art air-conditioning.  According to an article in the Chicago Free Press, (8/7/02) the 8-story tall Uptown "is still the largest free-standing theater in the Untied States, bigger than New York's Radio City Music Hall".  The Uptown hosted the popular television show, "Queen for a Day" in the 1950's--for one week each year.  This show, filmed inside the Uptown, would shower a needy housewife with all kinds of gifts and surprises during each episode.  Later, the theater hosted major rock concerts before it was closed for badly needed renovations.  A major fundraising drive was started recently to restore this amazing theatre to its original grandeur. However, the property fell into receivership and the drive halted. The City of Chicago is currently looking into ways to develop a viable theater venue and restoration project.
The Aragon Ballroom was also built in 1925 and is where many famous jazz performers and band leaders got their start.  The Aragon management required that no alcohol be drunk on the premises, and dancers were carefully chaperoned to make sure the Ballroom retained it's respectable reputation.  Due to the advent of radio broadcasts, people all over the U.S. and Canada heard live broadcasts from Uptown's Aragon Ballroom. Practically overnight, hotels were built to accommodate the revelers, who made their pilgrimage to Uptown Chicago, just to be part of the Big Band Era craze which was sweeping the nation. Now, the Aragon Entertainment Center is home to many nationally-known concert tour performances, as is the Riviera Theater. The Aragon, the Riviera, the Uptown and a small underground club, called the "Kinetic Playground" (a club inside the Rainbo, famous for their concert light shows) also helped launch the Rock Era. Today, a very diverse set of entertainers, from Rock to Latin, World to Country, Indie to BeBop, Hip Hop to Jazz, and Swing to Folk and all kinds of other popular music graces the stages of these still-popular venues.
Other Local History Links: Uptown Historical Society, General History of Uptown, Map of Uptown in the 1920's & 1930's, All Saints Church and Rectory, Arcadia Roller Rink, Leon C. Berry, Organist, Aragon Ballroom, Chicago Department of Cultural Affairs--The Uptown Entertainment District, Chicago Jazz Archive, Edgewater Historical Society, Essanay Movie Studios on Argyle Street, Gauler Twin Houses, Goldblatt's Store, Ghost at Montrose Point, Graceland Cemetery, Green Mill Cocktail Lounge, Jazz Age Chicago--Uptown, Lawrence "El" Stop, St. Boniface Cemetery, Uptown Theatre and Center for the Arts, Friends of the Uptown, Where Have All The Movie Theaters Gone--Edgewater Historical Society, Woolworth's, Wurlitzer at the Uptown, Wurlitzer at the Aragon